Information about Wine Type
Armagnac overview
Armagnac is one of the two major brandies of France (the other is Cognac) produced by distillation of a base wine. The wine is produced from vineyards in the region to the South and East of Bordeaux and is distilled locally, traditionally using the single-still distillation method, but now more often using double-distillation as in Cognac. Armagnac is classified by age at the time of bottling, and vintage Armagnac is permitted.
The terroir of Armagnac
Armagnac is divided into three areas in descending order of quality:
Bas Armagnac has sandy soil. It is named for its lower altitude, rather than lower quality. In the Western part, Sablo-Limoneux is mostly sand, and makes acidic wine. Sablo-Fauves is rich in ferrous minerals that contribute to both color and flavor. The Eastern part of Bas-Armagnac has boulbène, a heavy topsoil that covers subsoil of clay and sand. Bas Armagnac is one of the very few places where sandy soil is considered desirable. In fact, Armagnac from the Bas region is considered to have the most finesse. It has sand-based soil, often with a high iron-content (sables fauves) or with small pieces of clay (boulbènes) that tend to yield spirits that are very supple in their youth. Plantings are mostly Bacco and Ugni Blanc. The Northwestern portion of the Bas-Armagnac (known casually as the Grand Bas Armagnac) has a concentration of quality producers. Tenarèze (central) has heavy clay soil, but this is mixed with a chalky sandstone that gives an acidic wine that is suitable for distillation. Armagnac from Tenarèze generally ages longer than those from the Bas-Armagnac. Haut Armagnac (East and South) has the most limestone and marl, although its soils tend to be waterlogged in winter and dry and cracked and summer. (One of the reasons for the desirability of chalky soil is usually its water-retention properties, which however does not appear to be the case here). Plantings are dominated by Ugni Blanc and Colombard. Much Côtes de Gascogne wine and Floc de Gascogne is made here, as well as wine produced as Vin de Pays or as a base for Eurosekt. The wines of Haut Armagnac are stated to be generally unsuitable for distillation, although the reason is not clear. In fact, very few vineyards are now found in this region.Classification of Armagnac
Until 1999, Armagnac used the same Compte system as Cognac, but the date for maturation was 31 January instead of 31 March. The age requirements were:
Compte 1 = 3 starCompte 4 = VSOPCompte 5 = XOAge > 10 years = Hors d'Age. Vintages are permitted, and there are some single vineyard Armagnacs. However, in an attempt to improve the reputation of Armagnac, and to avoid imitating Cognac, the system was simplified in 1999 with a system of classification:Blanche Armagnac (no aging: approval requested from the AOC)Armagnac (less than 6 years)Vieil Armagnac (more than six years)Vintages (from a single year and at least 10 years old)Varietals in Armagnac
Similar grape varieties are planted in all three regions of Armagnac, so the soil appears to be the major factor determining the quality of the brandy. However, there are differences between the qualities conferred by each grape. Nine grape varietals are permitted in Armagnac. As with Cognac, Folle Blanche, also known here as Picpoul, which means lip-stinger and reflects the high acidity, was largely replaced by Ugni Blanc after phylloxera; now Ugni Blanc is >75% of plantings and Folle Blanche (which gives low yields, and is prone to mildew and rot) is less than 3%. Colombard, Bacco 22A, Blanquette (Mauzac), Clairette, Jurançon Blanc, Plainte de Greece, Meslier St. Francis are the other grape varieties. Each grape has a typical range of aromas and is distinguished by the weight and texture it brings to the brandy. The properties of the principal varieties are:
Folle Blanche gives light to medium-bodied wine, is low in alcohol (7%-9%), and high in acidity. Folle Blanche makes Armagnac with fine texture and light aromatic overtones. Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano in Italy) comprises 98% of the Cognac vineyards, and comprises the majority (55%) of the grapes used in Armagnac. It is relatively easy to grow and gives high yields of wine with low alcohol, high acidity, and neutral flavor. Ugni Blanc gives an Armagnac floral aromatics, often showing spiciness from the aging in oak. that tend to accentuate the spice notes from the oak in which they are aged. Armagnac made from Ugni Blanc is less aromatic and less fine than Armagnac made from Folle Blanche. Colombard represents 40% of the vines planted in the Armagnac region, but is not favored for production of Armagnac. Only 10% of production is distilled, the rest being used for Floc de Gascogne, a local distilled aperitif or for dry table wines of the Côtes de Gascogne. The Bacco 22A hybrid (a cross of Folle Blanche and the Noah variety of Vitis labrusca) is grown in Armagnac. After it was developed in the 1920s, it dominated the Armagnac vineyards until the 1970s, so most Armagnacs of that period are largely based on Bacco. Armagnac made from Bacco (it represents 40% of the vines planted in the region, but only 10% is distilled, the rest being used for Floc (a local distilled aperitif) or dry table wines), is full-bodied, but can be rustic and lack finesse. It is now being phased out; it is permitted to be grown until 2010, although new plantings are banned. One reason for the ban is that it produces wines with a higher level of ethyl carbamate (a known carcinogen) than other varietals. In spite of the fact that the levels are still very low - consumption to a point of danger would be likely to kill first by cirrhosis of the liver - this is felt to be a health hazard. Part of the pressure to ban the hybrid came from the U.S. FDA, which found levels it considered unacceptable in Armagnac. The feeling in Armagnac is that the hybrid contributes important qualities to Armagnac, and the ban will lead to a significant loss of character. It was in fact the major grape variety until it was overtaken by Ugni Blanc in the early 1980s.Vinification and Distillation in Armagnac
Wine is produced by natural fermentation (no added yeasts), the wine rests for about three weeks and then is distilled. Chaptalization is forbidden. Typically the wine is high in acid. Typical production levels are 100-120 hl/ha, but only <90 hl/ha can be distilled into Armagnac; anything above that level must be sold as grape juice or must. Distillation continues from the second week in November until the end of March following.
In producing brandy, the role of the grapes is to provide wine whose properties give good spirits on distillation. The desirable qualities in the wine are high acidity, a generally neutral balance with regard to aromaticity (because aromatic properties are concentrated during the distillation process), and relatively low alcohol (9-10%) (alcohol level determines the length of distillation that is necessary and therefore the degree to which elements in the wine are concentrated during the process. A 10% wine would see 7× concentration in distillation to 70%, but a 7% wine would see 10× concentration)The single distillation (Verdier) method for Armagnac was introduced after phylloxera. It produces brandy at a lower alcohol level 52-60% compared with the 71% of the pot still), but more efficiently, which was an advantage at the time in view of the reduced availability of base wine. It differs substantially from the traditional continuous still; it distills at lower temperatures, which is responsible for the lower alcohol content in the spirits. The wine is heated by condensing vapors and enters the condensing chamber in a volatile form. Because of the low temperature of distillation, the method produces a spirit with a higher content of congeners that is rich in nose, body, and flavor. One result is that more of the fruit's flavor is retained than with a pot still, so the type of grape has more influence in determining the style of the brandy (and single varietal bottlings are therefore more common in Armagnac than Cognac). Three quarters of Armagnac is distilled by the alembic method, but the pot still method was legalized after 1972 and is now used by some of the larger distillers. Unlike the single pot still, the continuous still uses a portable apparatus; in fact, most independent producers perform their distillation via a traveling still. Armagnac is aged in local or Tronçais oak in 400 l casks. The only significant difference from Cognac is that that products of different distillations are blended before being put into cask; this can include blends from alembic and pot stills.
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