Information about Appellation

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Greece

Overview of Greece
Greece has been the last of the traditional winemaking countries to modernize. Although this has left it with some disadvantages in the market (poor consumer reputation) it does mean that the latest equipment can be used and mistakes made elsewhere can be avoided. Until very recently, virtually all production was bulk, with must being transported directly to taverns. Even into the 1950s, retsina was made by adding the resin to the must at local taverns. Bottled wine generally became available only in the 1960s.

Developments in Greece
Changes in the wine law in Greece are under consideration as a result of the widespread planting of unauthorized grapes. Like the super-Tuscan model, these plantings are producing wines of high quality that can be sold only as vin de pays. For example, plantings in the Naoussa region of Macedonia are no longer 100% Xynómavro, the indigenous variety that is specified. Only 25-30 of the 250 indigenous Greek varieties produce high quality wine.

Sweet wines of Greece
Sweet wines are produced in the Peloponnese (to the South and West of Athens). Patras has about 4,000 hectares of vines, planted with Mavrodaphne, Rhoditis and Sideritis. The two main producers here are Achaia-Clauss, established in the mid-nineteenth century and the Patras Co-operative. Mavrodaphne de Patras is a deep red, medium sweet to sweet liqueur wine, ~15% alcohol. Mavrodaphne grape must be >51%. It is made from low yields, spends a year in oak. The wine is lightly fortified, sweet, and full-bodied. The most common Mavrodaphne is aged for 3 years Reserva is aged for 6 years (only produced in good years, e.g. 1996 was recently released); Grand Reserva is aged 20 years (1979 was an extremely good year that was recently released). The wines are usually matured in oak barrels outside during the summer, so expect some oxidized qualities. The wines are stated to be rich, raisiny, pleasantly bitter, and red-leaning-towards-dark-amber in color - somewhere between tawny and red ports - and are claimed to show varietal qualities. The bitterness is characteristic. Other sweet wines are Muscat de Patras and Muscat Rion de Patras, gold-colored medium sweet to sweet liqueur wines made from the Muscat Blanc.

Wine classification in Greece
An appellation system was introduced in 1971 and revised when Greece joined the E.U. in 1981. The appellation rules control varietal usage, define areas by soil type, limit cultivation, set maximum yields, and minimum sugar. 8 Controlled Appellations (AOC) are used for sweet dessert wines; 20 High Quality Origin appellations are used for dry white and red wine. There are 70 vin de pays equivalents - wine from the country that has a geographical indication. Appellation Reserve wines have minimum aging of 2 years for whites/3 years for reds; Grand Reserve are 3/4 years' aging. Vin de Pays and Tables Wines can have the description Cava after aging for 2/3 years.

Retsina is unique to Greece. The main centers of production are Attica and the area to its North West. The principal grape is Savatiano, usually blended with Rhoditis to increase acidity. It is made in the same way as any white wine except that liquid pine resin is added to the must during fermentation. The limit allowed by the E.U. is 10 g/l.