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Jerez

Permitted Grape Varieties
Black Varieties
None
White Varieties
Muscat d'Alexandrie
Palomino fino
Pedro Ximénez


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Appellations in Jerez
NameSize (ha)
Sanlúcar de Barrameda
Sherry10,359

Jerez overview
The region of Jerez in the South West of Spain grows grapes exclusively for the production of Sherry. Vineyards are classified as Jerez Superior (consisting of chalky Albariza soils) and zonas (other soils). The climate is Mediterranean, with a high humidity of ~70%, which is important for the production of Sherry. The varietals that are grown are Palomino, Pedro Ximénez, and Moscatel. The Soleras where Sherry is matured are mostly located in the vicinity of the city of Jerez, except for those where Manzanilla is produced, located at the coastal town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda.

The climate in Jerez
The climate has an important effect on the production of Sherry. It is Mediterranean, with a high humidity of ~70%. This is an important factor in the development of flor. The low winter and high summer temperatures inhibit the growth of the flor in most of the region, in contrast with the more even temperatures at Sanlúcar that permit year-round growth. Rainfall is relatively high at an average of 620 liters per square meter, but is confined to the period from October - May, which makes the particular features of the soil important in retaining moisture for the summer. The winds are important: the poniente from the West brings humidity, the Levante, from the South East, is warm and dry.

Terroir of Jerez
There are three types of soil in Jerez.

  • The finest vineyards are on Albariza, which takes its name from alba (white), as a result of the high chalk content (~60%), the remainder consisting of sand and clay. Albariza is considered the best soil for producing Fino sherries. Albariza absorbs large amounts of water during the heavy rains of February-April and then dries out evenly in May. It forms a hard surface in the summer that prevents evaporation, trapping a store of water, which continues to feed the roots of the vines through the hot, dry summer. Albariza occurs on the hills. It is poor in organic matter, so that fertilization is required.
  • The valleys between the albariza have Barro (mud) soil. This has up to 10% chalk, but is darker in color, sometimes with a red tinge due to the presence of iron oxide, and it gives a coarser wine.
  • Arena soils consist almost entirely of sand, are considered inferior, and the vineyards on it have mostly died out, although those in the coastal region are still used for production of Moscatel.
  • The Sherry-producing area is divided into Jerez Superior (where Albariza soil is >80% of the vineyard) and Jerez Zona (other soils). Jerez Superior is divided into ~150 individual vineyards (pagos), varying in size from <1 to >1000 ha, which are registered with the Consejo Regulador. Names are found on the bottle only for the few largest pagos. As a general rule, the hotter pagos make the best Oloroso, the coolest make the best Fino. The price of grapes depends on the classification of the vineyard, Albariza being the most highly rated.

    Viticulture in Jerez: grapevine pruning
    The vines are pruned in the Guyot system, known locally as vara y pulgar (stick and thumb). A vine has two permanent branches, which are used in alternate years. The vara is a long fruiting cane that is cut off at the end of the year. The pulgar is left with two fruiting buds (to be sure one is available next year to form the vara) The vara gives 7-9 grape bunches. There is some pressure to allow two varas, which would effectively be a double guyot, and this may be permitted by the new rules. The grapevine is allowed to have a lot of leaves, both to pick up humidity from the wind (the sole source of moisture during the summer) and to shade the grapes from the sun.

    Viticulture in Jerez: harvesting
    Some companies make table wine from the same vines that are used to make Sherry, and this can cause some conflict over harvesting, because the grapes need to be picked earlier to maintain the freshness required for a table wine. Typically in these circumstances, the first grapes to be picked will be used for the table wine, the last will be used for Sherry. Growers who grapes are used only for Sherry tend to pick later to get higher potential alcohol levels. However, pressure from growers has caused harvest dates to move earlier. About half of the vineyards are farmed by integrated production techniques.

    Viticulture in Jerez: yield limits
    Total production is limited to 11,428 kilos/ha (this corresponds to 80 hl/ha) of which only 9,500 may be used to make Sherry (the exact level can change from year to year); the rest can be used to make table wine or can be distilled. A single grapevine develops 7-9 bunches on the vara and produces ~3 kg of grapes. The Bodegas pay growers by the kilo, so there is no incentive for reduction of yield or increase in quality; the price is roughly €400 per kilo. Palomino Fino cannot be harvested below 10.5° Baumé; the typical level is 11.0°, with relatively low acidity of 3.7 g/l. Pedro Ximénez typically is harvested at 12.8° Baumé and higher acidity of 4.5 g/l. Moscatel harvests at 11.7° Baumé and 4.1 g/l acid.

    Vineyards in Jerez
    Many of the features of viticulture result from the very hot climate. Changes are being introduced in response to the decision in 2001 to allow mechanization. Prior to then, harvesting had to be manual unless specific permission was granted to use mechanization. (The reason was partly in order to support employment levels; more recently a shortage of pickers has changed the situation). The traditional system of planting vines for Sherry production was the Marco Real, with a separation between vines of 1.5 × 1.5m, but the introduction of mechanization has changed this to a grid of 1.15 × 2. 30 m. Vines are now being trained at 80 cm. rather than the traditional 60 cm. in order to assist mechanization. Presently about 10% of vineyards are harvested mechanically. Remember that temperatures are high when the grapes are picked, so rapidity and good handling are essential. Vines used to be planted in an alternating pattern that was considered to make best use of the land, but now they are usually planted in rows running horizontal to the slope. There used to be 3500-4000 vines per hectare, but the number in new vineyards is now closer to 4500. Aserpiado (mounds of earth running along the slope) are used to minimize water runoff and retain rainfall. New vineyards are usually established by grafting rootstocks in the field (because local economics make this cheaper than purchasing grafted plants from nurseries). Grapes are used for distillation for the first four years.



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