Information about Appellation
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Jura overview
The Jura is to the East and South of Burgundy between Dijon and Lake Geneva. In addition to dry white and red wines, it makes Vin Jaune (an oxidized style of wine resembling a Sherry), Vin de Paille (a sweet dessert wine), and a sparkling wine (Crémant).
Appellations in the Jura
Côtes de Jura is the generic appellation that runs more or less North-South through the region and accounts for 80% of production, mostly white based on Chardonnay, although there is also rose, vin gris, and red.
Arbois makes all types of wine and is the largest AOC. Pupillin is a cru within Arbois. Most of the red wines of the Jura are made in Arbois. Most often based on Poulsard, they are lightly colored (often not much darker than rosé). Poulsard and Trousseau (which is a little heavier) may be blended. The varietal names can be used on the label. Dry white wines are mostly based on Chardonnay, either in a Burgundian style or in an oxidized style like Vin Jaune. Wines made from Savagnin are mostly in the oxidized Vin Jaune style, although there are some dry whites made from Savagnin in a non-oxidized style. l'Etoile makes white wine, Vin Jaune, and Vin de Paille. Château Chalon makes Vin Jaune only (any other wine produced within the area is labeled as Côtes de Jura). The standard here is high, and in a poor year (such as 2001), growers have been known to agree not to bottle any wine under the appellation.Styles of wine in the Jura
The big issue in the Jura is whether a white wine is made in a reductive style (like white wines elsewhere) or in an oxidative style (here considered to be traditional). The trend is away from the oxidative style toward a more Burgundian style, but (with the exception of wine that is labeled as Vin Jaune) the style is not stated on the label.
Vin Jaune is an unusual wine that resembles Sherry in some aspects. The grapes are late harvested, given a slow fermentation, and left in barrels with no topping up for >6 years. Volume is reduced by about 1/3 by evaporation. Under the action of yeast present in the cave, a flor develops on the surface of the wine, as it does in Sherry. (This is known locally as a voile, or veil.) The flor provides a protective surface against too much oxidation. The wine has an amber color, and some aromas of oxidation. Its very acidity distinguishes it from Sherry. Vin Jaune is made only from the Savagnin grape, which has a thick skin, resists the first freezes, and therefore is suited to late harvesting. As a result of the long period required for production, and the losses of wine due to evaporation, it is expensive (typically $40-50 per bottle). It accounts for only ~4% of total production in the Jura. Vin de Paille is a sweet wine made in hot summers. Bunches of grapes are left after picking in lofts or laid out on straw. They are pressed in December and must mature in casks for three years. The wine has 15-16% alcohol (it is required to be >14.5%) and high residual sugar. It is like the Italian vin passito. It is usually based on Poulsard, Savagnin, and Chardonnay; the Savagnin gives it high acidity. Crémant de Jura is the appellation for sparking wine. Macvin de Jura is a vin de liqueur (fortified grape juice) made in the same way as the better known Pineau des Charentes by adding brandy to stop fermentation.Varietals in the Jura
The whites are mostly Chardonnay, Melon d'Arbois, Pinot Blanc, Savagnin (related to Traminer). The reds are Pinot Noir, Trousseau, and Poulsard.
Trade in the Jura
Henri Maire controls a high proportion of production in the Jura and is the largest firm in France making direct sales to the public.
