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The maturation of Champagne
After the second fermentation of Champagne has been completed, the dead yeast cells break down by autolysis. This usually lasts for 4-5 years, but can last longer. The compounds that are released have anti-oxidative properties, and protect the wine during this period. Amino acids and other nitrogenous compounds are released. These contribute to the finesse. Acetal compounds that are produced contribute biscuity flavors. The duration of maturation in the bottle will affect these flavors, but in principle the flavors in a champagne are considered to be "fresh" at the time when it is disgorged. After disgorgement, further changes occur in the bottle, and these are usually considered to involve an increase in "biscuity" or "toasty" qualities. These result from the reaction Maillard between nitrogenous compounds and sugars. The taste of an old vintage champagne may therefore depend on what proportion of its time in bottle has been spent before or after disgorgement. Champagne becomes more sensitive to oxidation upon disgorgement with age, so older-disgorged bottles age faster than bottles disgorged at the vintage. The taste of an older vintage champagne may be as influenced just as much by the date of disgorgement relative to the vintage as by the quality of the vintage. This has led to some controversy about the relative desirability of early versus late disgorgement. Some houses believe in disgorgement just before a champagne is sold, led by Bollinger (whose prestige R. D. cuvée indicates Recently Disgorged). There is now a movement to state the date of disgorgement on the bottle, so the consumer can judge.



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