Beaumes de Venise makes a Vin Doux Naturel based on Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains. Fermentation is arrested by the addition of brandy to produce a wine of just over 15% alcohol; the regulations require there to be >110 g/l of residual sugar at that point. The source of the alcohol (~96% pure) is the local distillery at Jonquières. The wine is stored in stainless steel until it bottled within a few months. About 90% of the VDN is produced by the cooperative. The wine should be drunk relatively soon (like all Muscats). Beaumes de Venise also was just promoted from Côtes du Rhône Villages to AOC for the production of red wine. Most of the red follows a blend of 65% Grenache, 35% Syrah. Beaumes de Venise is dominated by the coop, which accounts for ~70% of production.
There appear to be two strains of Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains. Both produce grapes that are pink/red, but not pigmented enough to generate red wine. One of them mutates to and from white grapes. Its rate of mutation is sufficiently rapid that the strain used in Australia (where it is called Brown Muscat because it has a high proportion of dark grapes) varies so much from year to year that the color of grapes in any particular year cannot be predicted in advance. The name is somewhat of a misnomer for either strain, since, although the berries are certainly small, they are also quite deeply colored, most often golden.
Clones of Muscat Muscat may be the oldest grape variety known to man. One of its synonyms reflects the record of its export from Frontignan in South West France during the reign of Charlemagne. There is wide variation in color, with many varieties being dark-skinned, others light skinned. There are four major varieties.
Muscat Hamburg is principally a table grape. It is the only Muscat that can really be classified as a black grape. Occasionally it is used to make red wine in Eastern Europe.
Some question whether Muscat Ottonel really should be classified as Muscat; it originated as a cross between Chasselas and Muscat de Saumur. A new varietal is the cross Muscat de Colmar, made between Muscat Ottonel and Pinot Gris, expected to have greater resistance to coulure, and to be planted in Alsace from 2005.
Muscat d'Alexandrie is used as both a table grape and wine grape. As a wine grape, it is less subtle and clumsier than the nobler varieties. It has more geraniol, which can give an unpleasant scent of geraniums with age.
Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains is the noblest variety. They vary in color (some are dark) and need hot climates. They are generally associated with aromatic, full flavored wines with distinct floral and musky tones. They can be vinified dry, as in Alsace, sweet as in the Italian Moscato, and fortified as in Muscat Beaumes-de-Venise etc. It is the basis for the sparking wine of Asti. In Spain the variety is known as Moscatel, in South Africa as Muskadel or Hanepoot, in Australia as Brown Muscat or as (Muscat de) Frontignan. It is possible that the dark Italian grape Aléatico is a version of Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains.
Regions for growing Muscat The most common wines based on Muscat are:
Fortified wines are made as monovarietals from Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains in several appellations in Southern France, including Beaumes de Venise, and several in the Languedoc, including Mireval, St.-Jean-de-Minervois, Lunel, Frontignan.
The white form (Moscato Bianco) is the form most widely planted in Italy. In Trentino and Alto-Adige, the wines are named for colors derived from the local varieties of Moscato: Moscato Rosa (Rosenmuskateller) makes a Rosé colored wine; Moscato Giallo (Goldmuskateller) makes a golden colored wine. They may be dry or sweet.
Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains in Austria is called Gelber Muskateller or Muscat Lune. Both sweet and dry wines are made.
Most of the Muscat in Spain is Muscat d'Alexandrie.
Portugal makes the classic sweet Moscatel de Setúbal from Muscat d'Alexandrie, and more recently some dry Muscat wines.
Muscats made in Rutherglen (Australia) from Muscat Rouge a Petit Grains are classified into the ascending levels of Rutherglen Muscat, Classic, Grand, and Rare (without any formal definition of any of the levels). They are made in an unusual way. Often the must is fermented for only a day before it is fortified. Some producers use a solera system (so no vintage appears on the label), in which older, mature wines are added to young wine. The wines often reach 17-18% alcohol, with 8-13% residual sugar.
Climate for growing Muscat Each of the strains of Muscat has preferred conditions for growth. Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains buds early and ripens late, so it needs a long growing season. It is susceptible to various fungal diseases and does not do too well in high humidity. Muscat Ottonel is the earliest ripening, and therefore is planted in Alsace, the most Northerly climate where Muscat is grown. Muscat d'Alexandrie requires early warm weather to avoid difficulties in flowering. All Muscats share a grapeyaroma that makes them attractive to insects, and they are susceptible to fungal diseases. The aromatic nature is usually best handled by cool fermentation and new oak is avoided.
Muscat d'Alexandrie
