Sangiovese overview Sangiovese is grown almost exclusively in Tuscany, where it is the basis of the wines of Chianti and Brunello di Montalcino. The clone(s) used in Montalcino are considered to be of higher quality than others. The combination of high acidity and often aggressive tannins has led to blending with other, often softer varieties, except in Brunello di Montalcino where it is vinified as a monovarietal) in the past in Chianti, the blending grapes even included some white varieties.
Clones of Sangiovese There is very extensive clonal variation in Sangiovese. The major recognized division is between the clone(s) used in Montalcino, which are considered to be of higher quality, and those used elsewhere. When Sangiovese was introduced into Montalcino, Biondi-Santi identified a clone of Sangiovese in his vineyards which he named Brunello (the little brown one). Descendants of this strain still dominate the production of Brunello di Montalcino by Biondi-Santi and other producers. Sangiovese Grosso is used to describe what has been thought to be a family of clones that evolved from the original clone of Biondi-Santi. More recently, three clones have been identified at Biondi-Santi. BBS11 is thought to be the original clone. BBS4 and BBS44 are different clones. Now as many as 650 different clones have been identified in the Montalcino appellation. The other general strain is called Sangiovese piccolo, and this is more common in Chianti. Sangiovese is much influenced by terroir: it does not do well in acid, loam, or clay soils, but prefers limestone. Experimentation to develop new clones has led to some with smaller berry size which look likely to lead to improvements in the wine. Brunello di Montalcino is classically described as having savory aromas and flavors with notes of tobacco and leather, but it is generally the case that changes in winemaking have resulted in more forward, fruitier wines that can be drunk much younger than previously, irrespective of the exact location of the vineyards.
The taste of Sangiovese Sangiovese is not strongly pigmented, having a rich garnet hue when young, becoming a warm brick-red when mature. It is prone to early oxidation. The nose has red fruits when young, typically bitter cherries with some savory notes on the finish. The nose develops into earthy aromas with age. It has very high acidity with moderate alcohol, tannins can be marked when young, alcohol is moderate, finish can be bitter. Brunello has more concentrated flavors, often with chocolate notes on the finish, and cherries coming more to the fore at the expense of savory flavors.